ZEN FUSION – TOOLS OF
THE TRADE
This is not
a definitive list, as I keep discovering new things to use. It is a list of
tools I use regularly that have worked for me.
I keep making new discoveries and I hope you will too.
Set up
I like to
set up my art table with a large piece of freezer paper (Costco) placed shiny
side up so it protects my table and I can dab out acrylics on it as well.
On top I lay
a piece of mat board (cast off from framer) as it is a more grippy surface and I
can cut on it without getting out my cutting mat.
2 Large
containers, like a large yogurt container of water, one for rinsing brushes and
one that is kept full of clean water.
I have a
spritzer bottle of water and a spritzer of alcohol (not the drinking kind)
To protect
my hands I use disposable gloves or apply gloves in a bottle lotion.
I wear old
clothes, an apron and old shoes….hard to get paint off good shoes and they are
a paint magnet.
Paper and
Supports
I have some
go to papers in my studio:
Strathmore
400 series papers for sketching and drawing and can take some very light ink
spraying
Strathmore
Mixed Media and Visual Journals Spiral bound so they are flat
Strathmore 6
inch artist tiles in black, white and grey
Hot press
water colour paper (arches) best
economical in sheets.
Cover paper
by Arches which is used for print making, but works well for all water based
mediums and ink. Available in large
sheets.
I buy small
canvases from Micheals on sale and gesso and sand them smooth.
My favourite
support to date is cradle panels and I buy Ampersand primed smooth finish
panels, but there are other manufacturers out there too. Just add a sawtooth hanger and put on the
wall, no framing required, well worth the money.
Inks
I am kind of
ink junky. I like dylusions spray inks though they do fade in light, so need a
krylon finish spray if exposed to light.
Also very
good are walnut inks by Tsukinek are archival and a little goes a long way.
You can make
your own ink sprays by mixing Bombay india ink with water in a spritzer or use
it with a brush or pour it and blow around with a hair dryer or straw.
Noodlers
Ink: these are the best colours I have ever found and they are permanent. They
will never leave, so use carefully. Good in technical or fountain pens and
dripping etc.
Alcohol
inks: great for adding accents or for backgrounds. Dilute with alcohol.
Pens
For tangling
I like Sakura Sensei pens, they don’t leak! They have a more comfortable barrel
and they hold more ink then the microns. Same archival ink as the microns. I also like the Tombow Mono pens, no leaking
so far.
Like the
Sakura PN pens too.
Markers
They tend
not to be light fast in general, but I have found that the Pitt artist pens to
be more reliable.
Though not
light fast at all, I like tombow markers for their colours and
blendibility. Just have to be sprayed
carefully for them to hold.
For larger
show pieces I like to use the refillable Molotow pump markers. You fill them
with high flow acrylics and tada, your archival paint is now in a pen!
Stencils etc
I have a
good selection of stencils and stamps I use with inks (like the little dylusions
small ink blocks. I also use them with acrylics and spray inks, just clean them
quickly as the plastic in acrylics stick very well to them. You can create your
own stencils or masking using low tack Frisket Film.
I look for
household objects to make marks, bubble wrap, netting, bottoms of old crystal
glassware, jewelry pendants, nothing is safe around me.
Brushes
They are
like rabbits, it just takes two and soon you will have a large family. For acrylics I use the ones with the clear
plastic handles so they can be left in my water bucket and wont disintegrate.
Buy the best you can afford and wash them in baby shampoo and they will last
years. Let them dry on an angle so that
the water doesn’t drip down into the metal part.
Paints
Watercolours:
I use professional grade tube paints and good quality pan paints. The more
expensive the higher the pigment quality and the less you will use.
Acrylics: Best to choose high quality like Golden or
Liquitex. If just playing around the
cheaper brands are okay, but don’t expect them to last as long or cover as
well. Can add glazing liquid to exend
the opening time. Comes in high flow, medium and heavy body.
Pastels
I have used
oil pastels, watersoluble crayons, and like the pan pastels for their colours
and easy of use with a makeup sponge.
They will come off if you don’t spray them with a fixative.
Sticky
Stuff
I start with
PVA (poly vinyl adhesive) first and is good for gluing papers. It dries pretty
slowly for repositioning, removes with water and dries clear. Can be mixed with
paints. Then if that doesn’t work, I try
Golden regular gel matte or heavy gel matte mediums or good ol’ Modpodge.
Finally if
all else fails I open the windows and use E6000 which does glue metal to paper.
For light
gluing I use glue dots and sticky foam.
Bling:
If you want
to add some shiny embelishments I like to use DecoColor silver and gold pens
and Faber Castell texture gems.
For a really
nice touch I have some metal sticky tape in copper that I bought at a stained
glass supply house, comes in different metals and can be tinted with acrylics
and alcohol inks for fun effects.
Finishing
Touches
If you are
working in a journal you probably won’t need to protect your work as it won’t
be exposed to sunlight. If it will be
exposed I use Krylon products. I like Low Odor clear finish and use many light
coats sprayed carefully so I don’t smudge my work. Sprayed and under museum glass hung out of
sunlight and it will last years.
Books
I recommend
two books for beginners:
Celebrate
your Creative Self by Mary Todd Beam
Surface
Treatment Workshop by Darlene Olivia McElroy and Sandra Duran Wilson
I encourage
you to try new to you materials and experiment as a child would and get messy!
Thank you for your generosity in sharing this list. It is very helpful.
ReplyDeleteYou are most welcome.
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